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Date: 10 Aug 2013
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Date: 03 Apr 2013
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Idaho's Mount Borah offers some serious ice climbing We were ice climbing up the north face of Borah Peak an imposing slanted wall about 2,000 feet high and trying to move quickly. We had been warned that this climb could take all day and into the night. To move quickly, we opted to solo unroped as much as possible. For the first three-fourths of the face we were lucky. The ice was what climbers call plastic soft and pliable and very reassuring as our tools easily sunk in deep and grabbed. We were cruising up the 45 to 55 degree slopes. Every couple of hundred feet, we would stop and relax, mainly to let our screaming calf muscles recover. We arrived at a point where the route jogs a bit to the left and heads up to a wide chimney of rock the exit route to the summit. The ice looked like more of the same plastic, reassuring stuff. And it was good for about a hundred more feet. Then we hit hard ice. The ice tools, about the size of hammers with wicked spikes on the end, started bouncing off the hard ice; crampons on our boots seemed to take an extra kick to get them to stick. Instead of one whack and move up, it was two or three or four swings to get the point to stick and feel confident that it would hold your weight. I was suddenly wishing Matt was above me lowering a rope down for me to tie into. But our rope was still hanging on my pack. I carefully picked my way through the hard ice. My heart began to pump harder and my breathing became more labored. The sequence always seems the same: hammer left, kick right, hammer right, kick left. As I rocked my weight onto my left foot the toe popped free and all my weight suddenly fell onto my hands. I yelped like a 10-year-old girl. The thought of sailing down the icy slope for more than a 1,000 feet bouncing and cartwheeling, passed through my head. Carefully, sweating a bit more, I moved through the hard ice and up to a ledge where Matt was waiting. "I would have felt better on a rope through that spot," I confessed. "I was wishing you would have lowered me a rope through that spot, too," Matt said. From that point, up to the summit ridge, we both were tied in. Ever since seeing a photo of some climbing <a href=http://www.monsterbeatsbusiness.com>soul by ludacris sl150</a> colleagues on the north face of Borah, the climb has been on my list. A local pro climber, Dean Lords, said the climb was one of the best alpine outings in the West a must do. Despite the hype, few people ever do it. While hundreds troop up the southwest ridge on the other side of the mountain, the north face can go dozens of months without an ascent. The best time to do the climb is September. It works like this: All the winter snow melts and refreezes through the spring and summer and after the first cold snap usually in September the north face transforms into 800 to 1,000 feet of continuous ice. Any earlier in the summer and the climb would be a wallow in the snow. The angle is 40 to 60 degrees (fairly moderate), but still difficult enough to keep your attention. Some years most of the ice is hard and difficult the entire way and other years (as in our case) much of it is plastic in nature. The hardest section of the climb is the top two pitches. At this point you are tired and things get spicy. The route exits the north face through a rock chimney or couloir about the width of a small bathroom and about 60 degrees steep. The chimney is filled with ice and is about two pitches (rope lengths) tall. Inside the chimney the ice is hard as a rock and probably rarely sees the sun. There is one tough obstacle in the chimney that took a bit of nerve to overcome: A refrigerator-sized, overhanging chockstone. Matt led above the chockstone while I belayed hanging from two ice screws. Above me, dinner-plate sized chunks of ice and fist-sized rocks sailed off the top of the chockstone and bounced down the chimney over my head as Matt smashed his way up the chimney. I was thankful for the protective chockstone until <a href=http://www.monsterbeatsbusiness.com>soul head phones</a> it was my turn to climb over it. Easy rock is a bit more intimidating in boots with crampons. The last 40 feet of the exit chimney was devoid of ice. It was snow-covered dirt with cracked up rock ribs sticking through. At this point, your ice tools become nearly useless and get in the way more than help. I hung mine from my harness and grabbed loose rock with my gloved hands. There were a few moments of "WHOA!" and "YIKES! That hold's pulling free!" But within minutes, I reached the top and stepped into the sunshine of the west side of Borah. The climb was basically over. A half-hour later we had scrambled up the last bit of easy rock ridge to the summit and found a half-dozen or so hikers <a href=http://www.cheapmonsterbeatsshops.com>V-MODA</a> in shorts and T-shirts wondering where we had come from and why we were in snow clothing, carrying ice tools and a rope. After lounging around on the summit for another 20 minutes, the excitement of the north face gave way to the agony of hiking down the regular southwest ridge trail in block-hard mountaineering boots. After two hours of grinding down the mountain, my feet were screaming at me.
Date: 07 Oct 2012
Remote Name: 126.96.36.199
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